I am currently holidaying in Nice in the South of France, alongside my favourite bike. It’s become something of a tradition for me over the last few years, an escape of sorts, whereby I pack up the bike and pick a location in France where I can try out some new cycling ground, preferably an area which includes one or two famous climbs. This year, the location is Nice (as discussed in my previous post).
Nice is quite a popular spot for cycling enthusiasts, with amateurs of all ages and abilities taking to the roads on all sorts of bikes. It’s also a popular training ground for the pros, with the likes of Team Ineos often seen riding about on these roads and using the mountains for training rides. The roads are quite good in the general area and the coast road from Nice all the way around to Ventimiglia provides both a beautiful and undulating ride, with the option at many stages to turn left off the coast road and head directly up into the Pyrenees mountains.
With a number of challenging climbs available so nearby in the Pyrenees mountains, I felt it incumbent on me to look some of these climbs up, just to see what data was involved and to toy with the idea of maybe trying one out. Among the climbs which I came across was the infamous Col de la Madone (de Gorbio) which begins just outside Menton before the Italian border. This climb is approximately 12.5km long, if you start it from the turn off just after/before Menton on the coast road and although it has never actually featured in the Tour de France, it has a strong association with French cycling and the Tour, primarily because of the notorious Lance Armstrong.
The story goes that Lance used to train on this climb in preparation for the Tour with Dr Michele Ferrari waiting at top for him to take his blood lactate levels upon his arrival. (He doesn’t include this tit bit of information in the interview below, naturally…) If Lance made it up in a “good time”, he knew whether or not he would win the Tour. If Lance was able to maintain 6.8 watts/kg, he knew he could win.
Of course, Lance wasn’t the first to use this climb as a testing ground for the Tour and it continues to be used by pros as a training ground. You only need to take a glance at Strava to see all the big names that regularly take on this climb – Froome, Kwiato, Bardet, Barguil… it goes on and on. So, of course, I wanted to have a go and a go, I had!
I began my ride towards the climb from my base in Nice and took the coast road all the way towards Menton. Just as you head out of Menton, you then take a left turn onto a minor road which heads directly northward and you immediately begin to climb.
The first section is steep – 3km averaging out at 6% – but the first 2km gets up to over 14% in places and plays between 8-10% for a lot of it. The 3rd km gives you a reprieve and drops down to 4-5%, which is a nice break and gives you a chance to take a few photos if that’s your jam.
The road kicks up again after 3km and it more or less stays that way until 8.6 km into the climb – although there are moments where the gradient drops down to 4-5% which feels like a glorious break from some of the steeper sections. So it’s not an all out slog the entire time, which I felt the Aubisque was last year. That being said, it certainly challenging and as I say, there are times when the grade kicks up to 13-14%. You just have to ride through these patches and remember that intermittent reprieves are on the way!
As you continue up this climb, you quickly begin to notice just how high up you’ve suddenly gotten. If you look out (again, at the stunning views), you can see the massive motorway down below suddenly appearing tiny on the landscape and you are way, way above it. It’s very cool, but not for those who don’t do heights so well!
As you tick down the kilometres one at a time, you start to near towards a village called Saint Agnes which is built into the side of the top of a mountain. That’s what you are aiming for. You reach the entrance to this village at about 8.6km and then swing a left turn onto a more minor road again and there you continue into the last leg of the climb.
2.4km from here to the top. This last section was fine for a while, but it did seem to go on a lot longer than 2.4 km for me – yes it was the end of a 12.5km climb so I was tired but I swear that little dot on my Garmin elevation screen was just not moving at all!! That being said, I have to say that I got into the climb and I still felt able to keep going at this stage and finish the climb strongly, which is something I would not have been able to do last year for sure. Not so long ago, I would have been grinding and grinding, with no pleasure in it at all.
Today, I started out feeling tired and doubting that I had any climbing legs, but once I got going and shook out the fatigue, I found I was able for the long climb and its challenges. It was pretty deadly (as they’d say in certain parts of Dublin!)
So I didn’t break any records and Lance’s disgustingly fast records are safe from me, for now. But it just goes to show what you can do when you’ve put in some good training and go into these things with the right mind set – that I’m here to enjoy it and have a good time. I pocketed another big climb and I took away a feeling of being absolutely chuffed with myself.
Oh and I can’t leave it without mentioning the descent on the way back to Nice via La Turbie. Absolutely class! There’s a bit more climbing out of La Turbie and then a bit of flat, but once you get past this and start heading back towards Eze and Nice, there are no more hairpins or dangerous turns and the road is a bit quieter so you can go all hammer time. Brilliant.
If you find yourself in the area, I’d highly recommend it as a climb to do.
P.S – I really want to tell you as well, while I’m here, that I did have the best ham salad baguette when I got back and had my shower. I nipped across to the boulangerie and bought a proper french baguette and some ham (not in the boulangerie…) and voila – the perfect lunch. Who doesn’t love France?!